Mukesh: The Golden Touch of Embellishment

By Somdyuti Bhattacharyya

Mukesh — also known as mukaish or mokesh — is a form of metal-thread ornamentation used to enhance an already subtle embroidery; a literal translation would be ‘gold decorations’. The work involves swivelling fine metallic threads or wires to create designs all over the fabric, and is usually practised on soft, not-too-thick materials for easy insertion of the wires. Silk, chiffon, net, georgette and muslin are the usual bases, and it’s found on everything from sarees and lehengas to kurtis and shirts.

History

The craft of mukesh is an age-old practice in and around the Awadh region. Dating back to the 3rd century BC, it was used to make royal evening wear more illustrious. Centuries ago it started as an adornment to Chikankari work, enhancing it and adding a bit of shine. Mukesh can be identified as dotted or small circular designs on light fabric, in either golden or silver metal. Originally it was done using only pure gold and silver; later, to make it more available, wires of different grades were used.

The making of mukesh embroidery

The main element of this work is a golden or silver metallic wire, and the process runs through three steps:

Chapayi: first, the block patterns are printed on the fabric with a washable dye or a mixture of glue and neel (indigo), using creative paper stencils or direct handwork.

Takaayi: next, the wires are stretched into long strips and swayed over a flame to give them a varied hue, then cut into wispy widths and hammered until almost paper-thin. This delicate density lets them be woven to and fro on a lightweight fabric — and unlike thick embellishments, these fine wires add to the enticing, delicate look.

Ghutaayi: finally, once the embroidery is complete, the cloth is spread on a flat, clean surface and a glass vessel or cowrie shells are rubbed over it to avoid lumps and ensure a brighter, shinier finish. The fabric is then washed slowly to erase any remaining marks of the printed dye.

Variety

Mukesh embellishments can be exhibited in several designs:

Fardi ka Kaam: fardi means dots — one of the most well-known and appreciated forms of mukesh. These embroidered spots are stitched in numerous sizes and designs, each with a unique name.

Hazaar Batti: characteristic of Lucknowi mukaish, an ornamentation resembling a thousand dots — not literally, but the intricacy and vivid spread give that impression.

Tikki: round wire spots flattened with a distinctive hollow in the middle, stitched together into a pattern, similar to sequin work.

Challa: literally meaning rings, this design consists of several ring-like structures moulded from the fine wires.

Various widths of wire — thick to thin, flat to rounded — are used for each pattern. Tikki and Challa are used in almost every mukaish design as small parts that complete the volume.

Kamdani: for a fancier yet delicate design, a short length of thread is combined with the wires, allowing countless colour combinations and making the weaving easier — so the wires can be stitched into more complex, exotic patterns.

The Bollywood factor

This ancient Mughal craft hasn’t lost its lustre, as many new-age designers still work to imbibe the culture of ancient India — designers like Anjul Bhandari have kept age-old customs and embroideries alive and contemporised them. Bollywood has moved this embellishment in a new direction, using more extensive motifs and designs: instead of just spots or border laces, entire garments are now designed in mukesh with geometric motifs.

How to care for mukesh

Owing to the delicacy of this embroidery, mukaish pieces shouldn’t go through vigorous cleaning — a slow machine wash or dry cleaning are the only viable options. For longer life, don’t leave any loose end unattended; carefully cut them off close to the fabric. Ironing mukaish garments should be avoided at all costs, as contact with heated surfaces can damage the embroidery and dull the hue of the metal.

Mukesh has always been considered the best mate of Chikankari, since at its origin it was used to accentuate chikan designs — like a crown to a king, the shiny metals added a glamorous effect. Today, though, mukesh has emerged as a solo ornamentation like never before, standing out among hand embroideries as the ‘fancy’ work.