Chikankari: The Heavenly Karigari

By Somdyuti Bhattacharyya

Chikankari is one of the most ancient textile-decoration styles to emerge from Lucknow — a delicate, artistic form of hand embroidery whose name literally translates to ‘embroidery’. It is a kind of shadow work that uses cotton threads to imprint intricate designs on solid cloth, usually on fabrics like muslin, silk, net and organza. It began as white-on-white embroidery — in itself the VIP of this craft — and while it was commonly used on salwar suits, over time lehengas have been designed in it too.

History

This embroidery originated during the Mughal era of Jahangir. His wife, Noor Jahan, was inspired by Turkish work and brought Chikankari to the courtrooms. The fact that Chikankari is linked to Lucknow suggests it was a part of Awadhi culture. Earlier, hand embroidery was the only way of adding designs to attire, and women loved a touch of exotic artistry; the detailed, intricate work of chikan grasped everyone’s attention. Although it dates far back in time, it hasn’t lost its influence on fashion — today, with a range of modifications, Chikankari continues to enlighten the ethnic-wear industry. From white threads on soft pastel fabrics to golden and silver zari threads that enhance the look, Chikankari has come a long way.

The making

Chikan embroidery mainly involves needles and thread. A chikankari piece starts with pattern blocks used to print a design onto the base fabric. The artist then stitches along the lines of the imprinted design, and once complete, the material is washed thoroughly to remove any traces of the printed blocks. The full process runs through several steps — designing, engraving, block-printing, embroidery and washing. From floral designs to desi mandala structures, chikan work has a vivid variety.

Variety of stitches

A thread can be stitched to a fabric in a number of ways, and the designs and effects created depend on the method of stitching and the thickness of the thread. Back-stitch, chain-stitch and hemstitch are a few types. The resulting open pattern or shadow work is known as jali — embroiderers create mesh-like structures by placing gaps between each stitch. A few key chikankari stitches are:

• Tepchi: a long running stitch used to create a line, often as a reference for further designing; it usually forms a simple, subtle shape.
• Bakhiya: also known as ‘shadow work’, one of the most predominant chikankari stitches. As the term suggests, the thread work is done on one side of the fabric and the result shows on the other.
• Hool: denoting a broad spot, this method is used to design circular structures. Usually six threads are used, and it often forms the centre of flowers in floral patterns.

Beyond these there are hundreds more stitch types. All these methods together form the end result of a gorgeous chikankari attire. Chikan embroidery is all about detailing and small-frame corrections — from afar you might not catch the exact pattern, but it’s done so exquisitely that it stands out in a crowd.

The Bollywood factor

Bollywood has played an important role in upholding the popularity of this embroidery. Celebrities from the ’90s to the present decade haven’t missed a chance to flaunt a heavenly chikankari ensemble — from kurtis to lehengas, from award functions to daily life, these stars have made a statement with this evergreen (or should we say ever-white) form of embroidery.

How to care for chikankari

Chikankari outfits should preferably be hand-washed, since the work is delicate and made of cotton threads. If not, use a slow machine wash. Avoid washing them in a machine with other clothes, which can cause the threads to snap, and stick to low-heat ironing.

FAQs

Where did chikankari originate?
Chikankari originated in Lucknow during the Mughal era and is closely tied to Awadhi culture.

Is chikankari always white?
It began as white-on-white embroidery, but today it’s worked on pastel fabrics and with golden and silver zari threads too.