Organza: Everything you Need to Know
By Anusha Lall
Organza is a sheer fabric that’s light as a feather. Originally made from silk, it’s now also made from polyester or nylon, or a blend of all three. It’s woven at an extremely low density, which gives it that light, transparent, flimsy texture. While it’s soft to the touch like silk, organza’s weave pattern is different — and it’s lighter than silk too. It’s widely worn as evening wear or gowns for special occasions, and even used by interior designers to make a home look more appealing.
Origin
Organza descends from a fabric called organzine, a type of silk made of strong twisted strands woven together. The name first entered French and Italian vernaculars as ‘organsin’ and ‘organzano’, and is thought to derive from the town of Urgang in Turkestan, in whose markets silk fabrics were sold. Like most silk fabrics, organza made its way around the world via the Silk Road, which stretched from Europe to China with several trading ports along the way. While initially it was purely silk, durability demanded that strands of polyester and nylon be used to some extent — a blend that keeps the luxurious look but makes the fabric more durable.
How organza is made
Organza is created with yarns twisted together tightly and woven to attain the sheen and desirable texture of silk. The thread is treated before weaving in a careful process: the yarn is combed through and treated with acid to achieve its durable character. The acid treatment is done only on the silk threads, not the polyester and nylon, which are already relatively stiff. While it stiffens the material, it isn’t rough to the touch and doesn’t fray easily. Pressing machines of metal or plastic are then used to perfect the seam appearance, pucker and stiffness that define organza. It’s mainly manufactured in China, France, Italy and the USA — and in India, chiefly in Bangalore. China mostly specialises in silk organza, while other makers produce blends, often using natural fibres like cotton alongside synthetics.
Types of organza
Organza is made with a variety of yarns, which leads to different types — typically by material (silk, polyester, nylon), but also by weaving technique:
- Spark organza: has sparkles woven along with the threads, hence the name.
- Pearl organza: no pearls are woven in, but it shines with a gem-like colour.
- Crystal organza: named for its crystal-like shimmer.
Organza in action
Brides prefer feather-light, soft organza for their wedding attire. Whether custom-tailored or ready-made, organza lehengas are popular. It makes wonderful use of ruffles and intricate folds, and the “overlay” technique is often used to enhance an outfit. Used mostly for layering a lehenga or skirt, organza adds flair — it gives volume and produces an otherworldly look that makes you stand out. It can be accessorised to suit the occasion, from elaborate jewellery for a special event to light accessories for a party. Like its sibling sheers georgette and chiffon, it’s endlessly versatile.
How to care for organza
As durable as organza is, it’s light and thin and needs care. Be mindful of your movements while wearing it so it doesn’t get damaged. Store it with precaution to protect it from insects — you can wrap it in muslin with mothballs. It irons easily, but wash with care; hand-washing is best. Available in multiple colours since it holds dye well, it’s widely preferred in white. Organza is made in many different ways, each equally vital for the right style statement — so the next time you want to feel like you’re floating on air, you know which fabric to pick.
