Gota Patti

By Somdyuti Bhattacharyya

Gota Patti is a traditional Indian embroidery that originated in Rajasthan, in which a golden thread known as zari is applied to fabric — the appliqué tapes woven down at the margins to form intricate designs. Widely used for weddings and formal evenings, it’s mainly practised on lightweight fabrics like georgette, tussar silk, chiffon and crepe.

History

Gota emerged as an evening-wear embroidery for royal families and courtroom attendees centuries ago. While most believe Gota Patti is the speciality of Rajasthan alone, some assert it’s a manifestation of embroidery that emerged from Punjab before taking off in adjoining states. Today, Gota Patti outfits have become an integral part of an Indian bride’s wedding trousseau.

The making

Gota work is an extensive, time-consuming practice involving several steps:

• First, the motifs are drawn using a perforated paper stencil to ensure exact, intricate detail — a process known as khaka.
• Next, the material is set flat on a wooden frame, and the placement of the gota is marked with chalk and glue before each piece is pasted onto the traced pattern.
• To attach the pieces and give the design its aesthetic appeal, zari thread is woven into the edges.
• For a final finish, the embroidered areas are gently beaten with a small, broad wooden hammer known as a mogri.

The Gota Patti fabric is then ready to allure the markets.

Variety

Different gota designs carry different names. On literal grounds, the ‘patti’ is an essential part of any design — the leaf. Tapes are folded into usually rhomboid leaves known in Hindi as paan, and these shapes are gathered to form a jaal that is then sewn edge to edge on the fabric.

Gota work involves a wide range of motifs — from floral designs to animals, birds and even human figures. A few of the most common are:

• Mayur (peacock)
• Chidiya (sparrow)
• Phool (floral patterns)
• Doli (palanquins)
• Haathi (elephants)
• Ghora (horses)

A slightly different technique, Gota Tukdi, first cuts the tapes into shapes like gamla (flowerpot), kairi (mango) or champak (flower), which are then cross-stitched onto the base fabric and adorned with zari or zardozi embroidery for an illustrious effect.

The Bollywood factor

Although this embroidery dates back centuries, its popularity continues to lure almost every ethnic-wear enthusiast. With modern styling, these age-old practices have undergone many modifications — new pieces use gota threads and motifs more appealing to a 21st-century fashionista, and a balance of old craftsmanship and fresh thinking has given the craft new life. Our favourite on-screen beauties have been spotted in gorgeous manifestations of it, from old-school to new-generation divas.

One Ram Leela star flaunted an immensely ornamented lemon-white salwar suit — an all-in-one ensemble complemented with high heels. Another beloved actress strutted a press conference in a lime-green saree with a broad rani-pink border, astonishingly embellished with Gota Patti designs and zari threads.

These days, this Rajasthani handwork isn’t limited to wedding and formal wear — it’s also being fused with Mughal ensembles like shararas and ghararas.

How to care for Gota Patti

Maintaining the lustre of gota work is essential. Vigorous rubbing while washing is strictly prohibited — a slow machine wash or dry cleaning are the only viable options, and frequent washing is best avoided. Ironing can damage the embroidery since it’s made of metallic tapes, so any gota outfit needs the least ironing possible. An almost irreversible technique that reigns over wedding celebrations across India, Gota Patti keeps the culture of ancient India alive through creative modification.