Dabka: Wiring Shimmer and Glamour

By Somdyuti Bhattacharyya

Dabka — also known as dapka or dubka — is a detailed appliqué work that originated in Rajasthan, in which a coiled thread or thin wire is woven into fabric to form elaborate patterns. Once the motifs are printed, the embroidery is finished mostly with gold, spring-like threads or wires, in precise, accurate placements. Georgette, silk and chiffon are the natural fabrics it’s practised on. Gold-coated copper wires were once predominant, though today it’s mostly executed with zari threads.

History

Another Turkish-inspired craft that made its way into the Indian peninsula with the Mughals, dabka originated in Rajasthan and its surrounding areas — many of which are now in Pakistan — which is why it’s colloquially termed a traditional Muslim embroidery.

The making

The process is extensive. Since the embroidery is intricately delicate, correct placement and precise needlework are vital — the craft owes its name to the intensely coiled wire structures. First, the patterns are imprinted on the fabric with coloured dyes. Then the outlines are slowly traced with a cotton thread, after which the coiled wires are cut into various lengths. These springy wires are made hollow inside, which gives the decoration its 3D appeal.

The dabkas are stitched onto the fabric one by one by gauging the needle from the middle. Finally, for a finishing touch, the motifs are outlined with zari threads to enhance the embroidery and give it a certain glow.

Variety

Dabka work has always been inspired by nature, showcasing it through enticingly detailed embroidery — paisley, leaves, floral patterns and birds are the common motifs. Some proficient craftsmen also use a braided texture with the coiled wires, and filling spaces with cross-stitched dabka is a prevalent practice. Sumptuous as it is, the range of patterns made with dabka is quite limited.

Because dabka is fancy and heavy, its use is restricted to highlighting designs and lacework for collars and yokes. Sarees and lehengas use it on borders and laces to make them more illustrious and opulent. And though it’s a rare feature among embroideries, dabka is now often seen not only on garments but on accessories like clutches and bangles, which are sure to uplift your traditional look.

The Bollywood factor

The undoubted effort behind a dabka piece makes it a thing of beauty — and also makes it expensive, with few buyers willing to pay so much. But our film industry never misses a chance to please the eye with expensively royal ensembles.

Many Bollywood artists have flaunted dabka-ornamented outfits on and off screen, and thanks to Bollywood, dabka emerged as an extensively used embellishment for anarkali suits and lehengas at cultural parties and award shows. Celebs flaunting exquisite, exorbitant outfits for the media has always been the trend, and many dabka artisans owe their jobs to Bollywood designers. With designers like Gaurav Gupta making such crafts part of their bridal and party wear, demand — and pay — for the craft is gradually rising.

How to care for dabka

For such delicate, detailed embroidery, any washing with detergent or soap is harmful — to maintain the lustre and shine, dry cleaning is the only alternative. Don’t even think about ironing a dabka attire; doing so might let your huge investment go in vain, as heavy wire embroideries are better off without heat. With the onset of fashion revolutions these age-old Middle-Eastern-influenced works were losing ground, as craftsmen tired of unprofessional pay — but as more designers revive old crafts infused with the new, dabka is emerging with a completely new face. If you love a wedding-worthy shimmer, dabka is one to know.