5 Traditional Embroideries of Pakistan that Make a Serious Style Statement

Embroidery is the practice of ornamentation, a mode of expressing sentiment and aesthetics that started centuries ago. The purpose of embroidery is not just adorning textiles but also holding symbolic meaning, traditional rituals and values. It works as a form of non-verbal communication that can identify the identity and social status one belongs to.

Pakistan has a rich culture of traditional costumes and clothing, considered among the finest all around the world. In the era of fast-fashion culture, Pakistani embroideries have secured their place in the hearts of people who love and appreciate art and traditions. There are many communities in Pakistan that have their own distinct identity, asserted through clothing, food, culture and practices.

Let's look at some of the traditional embroideries of Pakistan that would make you stand out of the crowd. Some of the famous embroideries of Pakistan are Phulkari, Swat embroidery, Ajrak, cross stitch, Ralli, Sindhi embroidery, Dandi Tanka and Balochi Tanka.

Balochi embroidery / Doch

The traditional Balochi embroidery, or Doch, is a unique form of embroidery that originated in one of the oldest civilisations, the Mehrgarh Civilisation, in 700 B.C. Balochistan is known for its craft, especially its Balochi embroidery. Women of the community are involved in the making after securing an hour or two from their household chores. It is important to note that these women do not get any professional training but learn by years of rigorous practice and sheer determination, guided by elders of the family.

Some key features of this type of embroidery involve geometric and random designs and the use of mirrors and beads along with thread. Motifs and designs are inspired by nature. The colour pattern is usually bright and vivid. There are no fixed designs or a designated chart of patterns to copy — it is the artist's imagination and creativity.

What makes Balochi embroidery distinct from others is the placing of the embroidery, which is on the front of the fabric of a yoke, covering the chest, the sleeves and large pockets stretching from waist to hem of the dress. With changing times, the artists of Balochi embroidery are adapting to contemporary times to attract young customers. The Balochi government has been helpful in this regard by patronising the work and also establishing training centres in Balochistan for the business to flourish.

Ralli / Zanjeeri Tanka

Ralli, as an artwork, involves three different categories: patchwork, applique work and embroidery. Out of these, patchwork and applique work are more practised and valued. Talking about the technique, it uses multiple types of stitching — chain stitch, running stitch and double-cross stitch, along with many others.

The patterns and designs used in Ralli are abstract. The colours usually used in the making of Ralli are always bright, fresh and full of life. One of the best things about the traditional embroideries of Pakistan is that they are majorly produced by women. Most of these women are full-time involved in free domestic labour and take out time from household chores to learn the skill out of their interest and determination. It has also become a source of income for many underprivileged families.

Phulkari

The word 'Phulkari' means flower work. Rural communities of Punjab initially practised it. Phulkari is equally loved and cherished by people across the border. Primarily, it was a non-commercial work of art, made by women for personal use and for gifting to loved ones for their sacred events. Women in rural Punjab used to wear a Phulkari ghagra (skirt) and chaddar (headscarf/cover).

There are different types of embroidery made under this, Phulkari being the most basic one and Bagh (garden) the more elaborate one.

Hues of red, pink, green, crimson, yellow and blue are preferred in Phulkari. Designs have a vast range, from simple flowers and geometric designs to human figures and objects, mainly inspired by nature.

Phulkari was initially started with silk threads, embroidered on handwoven cotton fabric. After the commercialisation of the product, the demand for Phulkari surged, and hence bedsheets, pillow covers and curtains in Phulkari design and pattern made their way to the commercial market. Many different fabrics, such as chiffon, georgette, silk and polyester, apart from cotton, are in use nowadays. Phulkari artists have moved past the traditional designs of flowers or trees and now take inspiration from movies and magazines.

Sindhi embroidery

The Sindhi style of embroidery, known as interlacing embroidery, is recognised for its mirror work encircled with thread. The Sindhi culture derives its lineage from the Indus Valley Civilisation, and hence the richness of its culture and art is well understood.

Talking about the embroidery, it is mostly in checks and chevrons. Mirror work is what makes the art distinguishable from others. Motifs are more inclined towards the Mughal and Persian forms. Lively colours like hues of red, yellow, orange, blue and green are favoured majorly. It involves intricate stitching techniques and fine needlework. The use of mirrors is a must, apart from beads, ribbons and coins.

Swat embroidery

Swat embroidery is one of the famous traditional embroideries of Pakistan that is cherished and admired all across the country and outside as well. The pattern is abstract and geometric, with preferably a black background. Initially, the thread used for embroidery was silk, embroidered on cotton fabric, but with changing times, many more types of yarn and textile are in use in the making of Swat embroidery.

The people of the Swat valley take immense pride in the work they do, and unlike most of the traditional embroiderers and artisans of Pakistan, Swat embroidery employs both men and women.

With this, we come to the end of our list of handpicked embroideries of Pakistan that continue to be relevant in today's ethnic fashion.

– Posted by Maliha Tabassum